Total loss start stop module...

Discussion in 'Tech Discussion' started by dax, November 2, 2011.

  1. dax

    dax Member

    Figured out an easy way to build a start / stop relay for anyone with a total loss setup.

    Easiest way is to contact the guy who posted to x-h20 and he'll build you a nice one http://www.x-h2o.com/showthread.php?538 ... top-Module.

    If however you are broke like me (translated roughly to tight prick) you could probably build one yourself, the circuit is dead easy.

    Stock superjet ignition is normally closed, open circuit when on. The MSD's are designed to work with the Seadoo setup, which is closed circuit to run. You could hack your ignition switch, but then it would probably corrode up like my one did.

    I'll post the pics up here on how I built a start stop module, parts available from Jaycar for less than $20.

    - Starts just like OEM (only when lanyard is attached)

    - Kills motor and powers down TL once lanyard is removed or "STOP" button is touched momentarily.

    - Does not draw from battery when off; will not cause battery drain.

    - Sealed and potted to ensure water resistance and to isolate from shock.

    - All connections are soldered.

    This is the circuit diagram:
    [​IMG]
    Basically it works when the start switch is pressed it fires relay one, which then starts supplying power to itself and stays on.
    When the kill switch is pressed it then fires the second relay which drops power to the circuit and completely turns off.

    It uses no power when off, and measures at 1.5w when on which wont flatten the battery in a hurry.

    Main parts, the relays are sealed types. Main one is rated to 30 amps and the small one is 1A.
    [​IMG]

    Full of silicone sealant, probably could have used epoxy or something else. Just before I put the cap on.
    [​IMG]

    It test's fine on the bench, lets hope its reliable I don't see why it wouldn't be.

    Parts:
    http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp ... rm=KEYWORD

    http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp ... rm=KEYWORD

    http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp ... rm=KEYWORD
  2. dickwebb

    dickwebb Active Member

    Dax,

    Looks real good but you may not have needed to go to such extent. You simply run lanyard post (usually black and white wires) in series with the ignition ON/OFF switch on the VIOLET wire of the MSD. i.e.

    +12v Terminal -> Switch -> Lanyard post -> MSD Unit Violet Wire.

    When your lanyard is plugged in the it will complete the circuit and provide a signal from the +12V terminal of your battery (provided your switch is on) to the IGN input on the MSD unit (something MSD has adopted from their automotive products). When you pull your lanyard the circuit is open and hence it won't spark etc. The IGN switch is kept so that you can ensure there is no "current leakage" through a faulty start-stop switch when you've got it parked in the garage.

    Check Page 4 of the MSD Manual at http://www.msdpowersports.com/WorkArea/DownloadAsset.aspx?id=1098

    Their illustration shows the switch connected in parallel with the lanyard post. Not a good idea if you've got a dodgy lanyard switch (for reasons mentioned above).
  3. dax

    dax Member

    Unfortunately that only works if the wiring is the same as a Seadoo or maybe a kawasaki.

    The stock superjet lanyard switch is open circuit when the lanyard is plugged in, therefore if you connected the violet wire to the lanyard post as described it would only be powered up with the lanyard removed or the kill switch pressed.

    Cheers
  4. dickwebb

    dickwebb Active Member

    Fair call. Kawasaki's are OC when the lanyard is connected as well and in those cases you simply connect it to the PINK (kill) wire of the MSD total loss unit (assuming its a PN 42351)
  5. dax

    dax Member

    Yeah, the MSD I have doesn't have the pink kill wire.

    And the added advantage with this circuit the MSD is completely disconnected from the battery when its turned off.
    You could leave the battery connected permanently and it wouldn't drain the battery or damage the msd.
  6. Aquanob

    Aquanob Active Member

  7. dax

    dax Member

    Or alternatively you could save yourself the hassle and wire it up like Norm does, stop switches are overrated anyway :wink:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
  8. Aquanob

    Aquanob Active Member

    Thats mint! haha, That was Lincolns doing actually, he wired that shit up for wain burt, some of you might remember wain burt, he was an ex racer who saw the light and started freeriding instead, now he has two kids and an ingrown vagina.
  9. tofa

    tofa Well-Known Member

    for fuck sake dax put that shit in the bin and buy new...while you were AGAIN wrenching on your ski you missed out on awesome waves sunday and tonight.

    Whats the old saying...you cant fix fucked!
  10. dickwebb

    dickwebb Active Member

    Sweet. I made the assumption when you first posted that you had the module with the Pink kill wire. Hence my mis-understanding. If it shits itself ever I have an MSD total loss system for a yamaha SJ (i.e. flywhell, stator plate, and total loss module wired into a OEM Electrical box) thats sitting around.

    Norm, your as helpful as always.
  11. dax

    dax Member

    I have a brand new ignition switch assembly, but because the previous ignition switch had been hacked I've had to build this module. I'm making it as stock as possible without butchering the new ignition switch, but leaving the MSD in for the time being. Knoxie has a similar setup and uses one of the modules that the guy from x-h2o sells.
  12. knoxie

    knoxie Active Member

    so does this contraption work dax :lol: ......did they not have a self latching type relay? (instead of using 2 relays?).

    make sure you use OEM style connectors on the ends of these wires so you dont have to go hacking up that brand new start/stop switch!!!. :roll:

    i had a link as to where to buy them...ill try find and post.
  13. dax

    dax Member

    I've got standard connectors at the ends, managed to rescue the old ones.

    I had a few hassles getting the right relays, all the latching relays I could find weren't sealed. In the end I just decided those ones from Jaycar would be just fine.

    It works fine, however time will tell on how reliable it is. I can't see why it wont be as reliable though.
  14. DanW

    DanW Member

    Dax dont do any more rough retarded shit on ya ski mate. you have missed 90% of the rides as it is :roll:
  15. dax

    dax Member

    All the "rough retarded" shit was done prior to me owning the ski. But I can see how it looks, I have an extremely bad run of breakdowns ever since I moved down here.

    Lesson learned is to buy the newest most unmodified jetski you can afford then do the mods yourself, unknown reliability is always the risk of buying second hand. I never had these kind of issues with my previous superjet which took a hammering in big conditions at Port Waikato.

    Since the older type of MSD's don't have a kill wire this is the most sensible way of keeping everything stock without hacking up the ignition switch to make it behave the opposite of how it does stock. The 4242 MSD installation manual says to wire in another switch for the MSD, this would be a pain in the arse.
  16. Rickster

    Rickster Member

    I thought the lesson was "never purchase a ski that has been Normanized"...




    :lol: